Trunkhouse Windows, Doors, Ceilings and Floors

This week turned out to be all about the trunkhouse's windows, doors, ceilings and floors. I am struggling to know the best order to do things in, but I figured if I at least had some idea what is going where, I could work on getting them ready. If I start with the first floor and work my way up, I can just grab the next part when I need it. For those of you who are considering building a trunkhouse of your own one day, even if I proceed in the totally wrong order, maybe my trials, errors and solutions will help save you from a few headaches.

Last week I had cut the floor/ceiling dividers from chipboard. This week, I added some nice wood flooring strips to the floors and some rough and ugly veneer strips to the ceilings (I didn't have enough of the nice ones). Then I treated them all with Fred's Weathering Stuff.

I needed to add rim bracing beneath each floor of the Sonotube to prevent the floors/ceilings from falling through. For this, I cut strips of cereal box cardboard. Trix aren't just for kids! 😊 I laminated many layers to counteract imperfections in my circle cutting. The same cardboard strips, which I'll use as baseboard later, will offer a similar solution for any gaps showing above the floor.

A paper cutter helps me keep the strips consistent in width.

Some strips are tripled where bigger gaps persist.
These "joists" will be hidden beneath the floor.
You may notice that I primed the Sonotube's interior.

Last week I touched on the challenge I'd face with the trunkhouse's windows. I had a few frames in my stash that I was looking forward to using, but how to create/place a window into a curved wall? I took a little Hobbit liberty for the solution and decided to build out some boxed windows. This will allow me to ignore the curve in favor of the size and shape of each individual window. When all is said and done, it will seem as though the trunk of the tree is much thicker than it is. And an added benefit is that each of these windows will offer a little shelf, of sorts. Who doesn't need more storage???

Some of my window shapes themselves offer unique challenges. Using the half circle windows as an example, not only do they have to fit into a curved wall, they have to have a special frame made for them. To accomplish this, I first measured the outside dimensions of the window -  8-1/2". I cut an 8-1/2" strip of illustration art board to the depth that seemed appropriate, then at every 3/16", I made a slice - not all the way through, just enough so that the strip would bend.

I applied wood glue around the straight edge of the window, making sure where the strip would have to turn the corner there was a slice. I held it in place until the wood grabbed - about 60 seconds or so. Then I let it dry thoroughly. I applied glue to the rounded part of the window frame, and again, held it until it set. Once the glue had grabbed, I secured the assembly with a thick rubber band to firmly hold it for the rest of the drying process. 

Once dry, the frame and housing can be sanded flush.

Prior to assembling the "boxed window", I traced/cut the window's pattern onto scrap cereal box cardboard. I measured for placement on the Sonotube, traced the window pattern onto the Sonotube, then cut out with a box cutter. With minimal sanding, the window fit. I traced the contour of the curved wall onto the window and will cut away the excess when it's time to glue it in.

This same process also worked for the round window. When I eventually apply the Paperclay to the interior walls, I'll be able to blend the seams in nicely.

And when I (eventually) create the bark for the exterior, I can turn the window's protrusion into a cut branch, a knot, or just a bump in the bark. All of these "features" should serve to add charm to the tree trunk's character. I hope! 🤞

For this unique window, I created a foam core box to mimic its shape. Then I traced and carved the curve right into the foam core. Perfection isn't necessary - between the glue, Paperclay and "bark",  no gaps will be left behind.

At this point I changed my mind on the placement of the round window which had been installed in the bedroom's alcove. I replaced it with two "leaded" square windows to create more symmetry. For these, I added basewood frames attached to foam core boxes.

 I moved the round window beside the bedroom's balcony door.

I had two more of the square "leaded" windows, so I used those to create both the interior and exterior window frames for the front door.

I have an idea for the living room windows which will flank the wood stove - I am waiting for a package before I will know if the idea is actually going to work. Until it arrives, I will spend my time painting the doors and windows, cutting beams for the ceilings and more cardboard strips for the trim. Boring, fiddly, repetitive but necessary. See you next week!

xo xo,

Jodi

Not A Townhouse... A Trunkhouse!

I'm not sure if this has ever been done in miniature home building, but what you are about to see attempted is the creation of a Trunkhouse. It's like a townhouse, in that the rooms are stacked on top of one another. But this one will be inside the "trunk" of a "tree". The "trunk" is actually a concrete form tube, known in the construction biz as a "Sonotube". These cardboard tubes are coated with a moisture barrier inside, and are ready made for concreting things like wooden fence posts into the ground. They come in various circumferences. My 10" tube is actually 9-1/4" of what I hope will become suitable living space for a very special Fairy Beary Godmother and her pet dragon.

48" of heavy duty, moisture barrier coated, cardboard tubing.

Intended purpose of a Sonotube

Here's the rough idea, very elementarily demonstrated by combining generic graphics. Imagine the Sonotube becomes a Trunkhouse, like a Townhouse, only it's the trunk of a Treehouse.

Are you picking up what I'm putting down? Great! Let's move on...

Because my tube was 48" tall and I needed only 33" (three 9" tall rooms and a 6" base at the bottom to accommodate roots), I needed to cut 15" off. Have you ever tried to mark and cut a tube? Well, let me tell ya - it's tricky!!! The best way I could come up with was to hang my tape measure from the top, then mark the tube at 33" at many places around the tube. To connect the marks, I taped my fabric measuring tape just below each mark. I used the top edge to draw my lines around the tube. Then I rechecked my drawn line, just to be sure. Because the tube and lettering are constructed in a wrapped diagonal, my eyes didn't believe my brain! The method seemed to work and I employed it again to mark where each floor/ceiling would land. 

I made note of the circumference in case I needed to know later on. 31"!

To cut the tube, I scored the line several times with my utility knife. Once I had a nice groove, I went in with my razor saw. I found that I had more control with the utility knife, so I used that exclusively, going forward. The biggest challenge was holding on to the the heavy and awkward tube while cutting.

Once I had the length cut and the floors marked, I could create the openings. I wanted something large enough to be able to reach inside to finish the rooms. And to be able to see inside well. But I also knew I'd need to preserve some wall space. I made a cardboard pattern, then traced around it in between floors.

It took a little patience, but eventually, all three openings were finished.

In the interest of creating more trunk details and a little extra room, I decided to attempt to utilize the 15" of leftover Sonotube. I reasoned that if I cut it in half lengthwise, I could make smaller rooms that connected to the main room which would provide additional living space.

But this cardboard is extremely stubborn! It needed to be coerced into bending at a more severe degree. I was able to persuade it with some wood strips and lots of wood glue! 

Once the strips had had a chance to set up well, I figured I'd better cut the openings into the room additions. 

This is upside down, of course! Easier to reach!

I wrestled the half tube in between the wood strips, glued them and taped them like an engineer. Luckily, this will all be covered in bark at some point, so there is no use trying to score extra points for neatness!

Once the gobs of wood glue had dried enough, I finally got a look at it upright. Like me, you'll have to do your best to imagine it clad in chunky bark and branches.

Russ asked me what type of base I was going to use. I told him it would be plywood, about the same size as the dollhouse. That should make for a stable and balanced diorama. He suggested that I glue a piece of plywood into the bottom of the Sonotube so that the base could be screwed up through it. A plug of sorts and much more secure with screws than glue alone. Great idea, Russ! Thanks!

I traced and cut the "plug" with my scroll saw, but when Russ saw that it was only 1/4" plywood, he said I should use 1/2" or 3/4" plywood. I told him I used what I had and what I had tools capable of cutting with. He chuckled like he always does at my "mini tools". Then he offered to cut a sturdier "plug" for me. Thanks once more, Russ! I will use my wimpy 1/4" plywood plug for the ceiling that connects the trunk to the treehouse.

I also cut and laminated the floors/ceilings out of two layers of very inexpensive chipboard. Because of the curved walls, I will likely create the floor bracing and the baseboards from cereal box cardboard. But before floor/ceiling installation, I should probably decide on windows/doors and cut the openings. I pulled a few things out of my stash, but will probably end up making custom windows with the Cricut. Bending chipboard to form around the curved walls will be much easier than bending wood, though I can create a few pop out boxes too. 

While the glue was setting up on the pop out trunk section, I had time to work on the front door. I'd picked up this door at Auntie Em's in Glendale AZ in 2017. I'd always envisioned it becoming a fairy house door, and now I actually have the perfect project to use it in! Getting the curve right for the enclosure and the shed roof was a bit of trial and error. Luckily, since I'm using foam board, it is easier to make adjustments than it would have been with wood. I'd really like to cut a window into the door, and to finish it while I can move it around, so for now, it will remain temporarily in place just for photos.

Here it is placed at the height that it will actually sit on the trunk. I imagine some stairs leading up, but my ideas are sure to evolve as I begin to incorporate the tree's roots.

Looking into the living room, you'll have a peek-a-boo view of the door alcove. I may add windows to the side panels, as well. We'll see!

I thought it might be nice for Roz to have a small balcony off her bedroom. Because wall space is at a premium, I decided on a single door. The door was a leftover from a previous kit - I just had to recreate a frame and drill holes for the hinge pins. I'll decide on railing details when I get to the exterior finishing.

The trunk's character is beginning to take shape, and that will help a lot in deciding on windows and their placement. Then, I can get those openings cut out, too!

I'm having a design meeting with Roz soon, and I think she's going to feel like the trunkhouse is off to a good start. I have exciting ideas for some interesting interior features, and I bet she'll agree! Hopefully, this addendum trunkhouse to the fairytale treehouse project will be fun for you to follow along with, too. Maybe it will even inspire you to make your own fantasy project!

Back soon with progress...

xo xo,

Jodi